At the Goat and Gorilla

That's the name of the bar in the grounds of the British Embassy in Kigali. We were there yesterday for a briefing from the British Ambassador about Rwanda, and after milled out in the garden to have a beer or two. Sadly I just had a soda water as I am trying very hard to keep to my diet.

It was a very good briefing. The Ambassador sketched the history of Rwanda and set out the political and economic challenges facing the country. He outlined how the Rwandan Government was doing everything possibe to end division between Hutu and Tutsi by describing everyone simply as 'Rwandans'. Ethnic labelling of any kind was not only against the law, but was subject to a severe prison sentence. The whole objective was to try and ensure that the next generation of Rwandans, only thought of themselves as 'Rwandans', rather than coming from a particular ethnic grouping.

We also had a useful presentation from a senior Department for International Development Official. He described how there were 7.9 million plots of land in Rwanda and, how DfID aid to Rwanda (which amounts to £50 million a year) was partly focused on land tenure reform, to enable landowners, however big or small, to have better tools, crops and technologies for better land fertilsation.

Whilst Rwanda is making great strides to go forward, there are some shocking statistics:

* One in Seven children die before their Seventh Birthday;
* More than one fifth of children under five have chronic malnutrition;
* More than 5 million people live below the national poverty line;
* Every three hours a woman dies in childbirth;
* Less than two-thirds of the population have access to an improved water source.

On the plus side, poverty levels (down from 70% in 1994 to 57% in 1996) and malaria levels have substantially decreased in recent years. Since 1999 the economy has grown by an average of 8% a year, a figure that is high in comparison to many African countries.

In the evening we went to a reception hosted by the Rwandan Government and were treated to an astounding performance of Rwandan dancers. It was an incredible show, and came after some serious speeches from the Rwandan Finance Minister, welcoming the volunteers, and from Andrew Mitchell MP (Shadow International Development Secretary. Andrew spoke movingly about the Conservative Party's links to Rwanda, and it's closeness to the ruling Rwandan RPF party. He explained why the volunteers were in Rwanda, for the third year running and our determination to make a small difference to this remarkable country through social action.

This morning I begin my teaching at a Rwandan primary school. I would be lying if I didn't admit that the first day is incredibly nerve wracking. I shall let you know how it goes later......